We sat upstairs having a beer and some limpets, watching the people below passing by and the locals playing cards. We then tucked into the Madeiran specialities of Espada (Black Scabbard fish) and Espetada (tender beef kebabs).

This place is down in the Old Town area just by the cable car station.

O Tapassol, Rua D.Carlos I, No.62, Old Town. Tel: 291 225 023