The previous times I have been to France was when I was around 14/15 when I at school and it was part of a camping trip. They were always to the North of France and during school times which meant they were usually wet.
It was that which has probably put me off going to France on an adult holiday, preferring to go more eastern europe.
Our friends Graham and Corrina go each year and use us as a stopping point on their drive to and from France. We have gotten to hear all their stories and sample their goodies that they bring back.
Saturday
We were lucky to have a free holiday in the middle of France courtesy of Angela's brother in law Matt who hired a large house in the village of Thenac, near Bergerac. He booked both sets of parents and their family and us as a surprise for Hien and their 10th wedding anniversary. She didn't know the parents were going until they met at Birmingham airport. It was only when they landed at Bergerac that she caught sight of Angela holding up a hastily hand drawn greeting sign and realised that we were going to be there as well.
Talking of Bergerac airport (Ryanair and Flybe destinations), I thought Bournemouth International was a bit of a shed but Bergerac wins hands down. The arrivals area literally was a tin shed with a custom officer just by the open exit. You could have reached over him and touched the car park.
Luggage wise it was a case of everybody mucking in. There was a short track of rollers and when the cases came in we all had to push them along and hope the rightful owner would come and pick it up. What a sense of community it built up.
It was all pretty easy and charming. Once out, we sat outside the cafe for a coffee and sprite. It was hot, 28 degrees supposedly but definitely hotter than back home.
Once everybody else arrived about 2 hours behind us, we got the hire cars (Avis and Europcar were there) and off we went. It was about 7pm by the time we set off and luckily we got to a large supermarket called Intermarche that was closing in about 20 minutes time. It was supposed to be a quick splash and dash but everyone got a bit too involved in checking everything out. So, if you are arriving at that time and are in self-catering accomdation, then stock up well and for two days if possible. We learnt the hard way!
We got a few bottles of nice red wine. They ranged from 5 to 8 Euros I think, but being St Emilion and Pomerol they surely would have been at least £10 to £15 back in the UK. This first section must have been where their nicer stuff was as later on near the checkout they had wine in the 2 to 3 Euro mark.
A large trolley full of stuff and even a pair of slippers later we were off.
This area is very rural, very little cars around. We even passed a group of smiling oriental monks who all waved at our convoy of three cars whilst merrily walking along.
We turned up at the house (www.acabanes.co.uk) and after about 10 minutes trying to find the entrance and various people trying the key, I managed to sort it out and we were in. It was a huge hall area that we ventured into. This is a very nice place. Better that you have a look at their web site than me explaining it all but I would recommend this place even after the first 10 minutes we were there running around have a nose around, oohing and ahhing around all the rooms.
The kids were straight into the pool whilst some of the adults sorted out the evening meal and I made a start on the red wine - Chateau Rigaud Puisseguin St Emilion, Chateau Labrie St Emilion and Chateau de Musset Lalande-Pomerol.
After dinner, which was really nice to have all 11 members of the family around a table, we then sat outside, turned off the lights and gazed at the stars. I know this might sound really naff but the night sky was absolutely clear and this was the first time I have been able see the Milky Way. Away from the light polluted skies in the UK, it was amazing to look up and see so many stars spanning the whole sky. Normally in the UK you can only see the main ones and nothing in between. Tonight, you would look in one spot and then you would see so many more around and they literally filled up the whole sky.
Once my head hit the pillow I was out.
Sunday
The next morning we all started off very adventurous and people were exercising, running, swimming and riding on the bike before breakfast.
The sun came out and things were warming up. It was nice to sit on the swinging chair in my holiday linen trousers and top, typing this review up. Will need a glass of wine soon...
With all the relaxing around we suddenly found out that all the shops were now shut. Hmmm, we should have thought about that a bit earlier. Now we have an empty fridge with barely enough for a hot dog and pasta meal for 11 people! We had been talking about having a bar-b-que all morning as well.
So, remember that it is not like the UK where you can find a Tesco or One-Stop open till 4pm or beyond on a Sunday. This is rural France where it all virtually shuts down after midday.
We sent a search party out that had a look around for a place to eat that evening. A pizzeria place was duly found and booked.
Meanwhile back at base, I thought I would make some pasta and sauce as an afternoon snack. It's weird having to cook for 11 as you look at what you have an have no real idea whether it is going to be enough. After the search party had returned it was just in time for food.
Whilst people were either out or by the pool I had the whole kitchen to myself, popped open a bottle or two of white wine and in between chopping, cooking and flitting out onto the veranda in the scorching sun I thought this is the life. Eating, drinking and chilling.
We arrived at the pizzeria place, Chepaou, which was in a small unit on a little shopping estate in Sigoules, and sat out in the back. 2 steaks and 9 roast beefs were ordered. That was easy. They do like their steak red in the middle, even if you do ask for medium.
The night brought some rain, thunder and lightening. But I was so tired that I slept through most of the noise of the chairs being moved around outside by the wind.
We even found out that the group of monks that we had seen the other evening were actually using the house opposite where we were staying.
Monday
The next morning was a lot fresher and cooler than yesterday. It was still bright but with some clouds.
A bit of table tennis after breakfast set us up for the rest of the day. By the time we tend to leave the house it always seems to be after midday and we arrive anywhere and everywhere for 1pm. Seeing as this is the continent, most things tend to be shut between 1pm and 3pm. Mad dogs and Englishmen definitely go out in the midday sun.
We went into the main town of Bergerac. Across the river and parked up. We headed towards the old town and river. There was talked about a river cruise or the land train. Neither happened as it crepes and ice cream got in the way and then it was back via the small Vietnamese shop for some spring rolls and an almighty shopping run at the supermarket. Partly to make up from the other night and partly as Angela's parents were cooking plus we needed to stock up on wine.
I loved thumbing through the wine bottles with things like Pomerol, Fronsac and Saint Emilion for 6 or 7 euros knowing fine well they would be at least 10 pounds at home. Makes splashing out a lot easier. After three shopping carts later and each being 100 euros and over, we headed off home. Had a great meal with all 11 people around the table. We had prawns coming out of our ears by the end. The whelks were left for another day.
After the meal people played Jenga, card games, watched TV or hit the pool table. The lounge area of the house is more than big enough to accommodate everyone doing different things.
Tuesday
After the morning swim and breakfast most of the men headed off to Chateau de Vigiers for a bit of golf. I say golf, it was just a short session on the driving range. The two grandfathers had a spot of instruction from Matt and soon they were slugging the balls over the 50m sign and beyond. It looked like a really nice place and judging by the menu and wine list I am sure it also had an excellent restaurant as well. A quick coffee and pilfering of walnuts from the trees above us, we were off back to the house for some swimming in the pool.
Matt had booked a nice restaurant for us for that evening. It was a place called La Tour Des Vents. Just up the road to Chateau Monbazillac by the water tower that you can see from the main road. It had great views over Bergerac and surrounding areas. They gave us a small round room by the entrance which suited us fine and kept our noisy lot from the rest of the diners as well.
La Tour Des Vents - Le Moulin de Malfourat, 24240 Monbazillac. tel: 05 5358 3010.
The maitre'd was extremely helpful and charming. He basically read through and translated the entire menu for us. You have to be a patient person to do that to a bunch of tourists. After he left we did dare ask what such and such was. I think collectively we were able to piece things together.
Thinking that it was be a good supportative idea to order some wines from the local area I asked for a Chateau Montdoyen and the Maitre'd pointed out that it was a sweet wine. Trying to impress I totally failed. After a bit more thinking the second attempt was better and we went for a white Bordeaux Graves that was golden in colour and rounded that even Hien liked it, plus one that seemed to have been made by an English sounding couple by the name of Sue and William Boyd, Chateau Pecacheral (sp??). The maitre'd even jokingly pointed the waitress in the direction of the wine expert, moi!
Me and Matt had the four different types of foie gras as a starter. I especially liked the pan-fried one that was soft and delicious. Some others went for the four different types of tomato with seared tuna. There was even one sweet cherry tomato on a cocktail stick with a "toffee apple" type glaze.
The lamb, steak and duck dishes were very tender and cooked to perfection. I had the lamb main course that was made up of a rack of lamb plus a small noisette of lamb as well. Both were very tender. Even though the rack was quite pink I had no problem eating it. That is something we found here and even more so in our BBQ the next day, is that the meat is fantastic.
There was a round of cheeses before the actual desserts. We mostly left the choices to the waitress seeing as there were no cheddar or dairylea in sight. For dessert Angela had the apple tart and that was a good sized round tart on its own, rather than just a slice. Most of us had the medley of four desserts which that night was made up of a creme brulee, raspberries sandwiched in brand snaps, strawberries with ice cream and a fruity sauce, chocolate cake and custard, and finally a strawberry and Chinese gooseberry in the middle.
The three hours that passed by went smoothly and didn't feel at all long. The staff were very attentive and everyone enjoyed it when they all simultaneously lifted the silver plated covers on presenting our main courses. This place comes well recommended if you are in the area.
Price-wise the set meals were 24, 35 or 42 euros or thereabouts. We had two bottles of wine at 30 euros each but they start from about 18 euros to 160.
Feeling very, very stuffed we left the place and I could wait to get changed into something and bit more relaxed and forgiving on the waistline. We had arrived at 7pm and left just past 10pm. It was a warm evening and with all that eating I had to have a late night swim just to cool off.
Wednesday
Matt's parents were heading back toward so he dropped them off whilst we looked for the local water activities park that we spotted on one of the maps. After a bit of driving around, albeit that it doesn't take too long to get anyway around here or is it due to the fact that we were a bit more chilled out on holiday, we eventually found a place but it was shut. It seems like mid September is when the season is coming to a close.
It was off to Eymet instead. Again we arrived when it was mostly shut. We found a bar/cafe for a quick drink and snack. Eymet must be a holiday haven for the Brits as there were many English people milling around that look like there were more permenant than passing through and English speaking estate agents pushing local properties.
With the evenings having been as nice as they were we decided it was to be BBQ night at Acabanes. Instead of heading for the supermarket we thought we would try our hands at a small butchers just off the two square. With the blind leading the blind, in terms of me and Matt's French skills, we stood in the butchers pointing and gesturing. We managed to get 4 chicken breasts, although the breast and leg demonstrations were a bit close to the bone so to speak! Then it was onto the steak. There was a huge slab of rumpsteak. We initially asked for 4 thick slices thinking halving them would mean one each, but soon realised that they were really big. We ended up just with three cuts as at the end of the night we had to leave two steaks because we were so full.
Anyway, the chicken and steak came to near enough 60 euros of forty pounds.
Having not checked how much coal was actually in the bag, we sent Matt out again for a scout around. We did various marinades for the steak as well as keeping a batch plain with a sprinkle of pepper on top. I have to say again that the meat was very tender and tasty. I thought with it being rump steak that it might have been prone to being a bit tougher. We had a go a trying a variety of steaks cooked to rare, medium-rare and medium and they were all fantastic. Good job the light was fading as the rare one might have been a bit off putting to see, but to taste it was fine.
Another evening drew to an end so it was Star Wars DVD on the plasma TV, a quick Baileys and off to bed. We decided to leave Matt on the comfortable sofa where he slept till 2am.
A question - why are there so many beauty salons for dogs, even in the rural towns and villages?
Thursday
The morning exercise routine has begun to fade towards the end of the week.
Everybody else left to visit Eymet again, as the market should be on and hopefully the place will be a bit more busier. I decided to stay at home and have a lazy day punctuated by a telesales call to the house trying to flog wine. I must have been on for about 5 to 10 minutes. The guy must have know it was a lost cause but he persisted and even broke into English at the end. I thought he could have started that way and save me all the hassle.
Angela managed to get a dozen oysters for 4 euros.
We didn't make it through the second half of Star Wars this time. Everyone was too tired.
The house has a good selection of DVDs for everyone.
Friday
No swimming, no nothing this morning. The fitness regime seems to have taken a dive towards the end of the week. Me and Angela were off to Bergerac to meet a couple of friends from Bournemouth who are touring around Europe in a campervan or whatever the modern things are called.
Luckily we got over the bridge and found some parking by the river and next to some recycling bins. We had a boot full of wine bottles from the week.
Having met Hugh and Jan, who were three weeks into their 6 month sojourn, they seemed fit and well. Well sun tanned that is. After a bit of a walk around we decided to go for lunch. One thing we must remember, apart from the fact that most things are shut on Monday morning and that most shops shut for 1pm is that decent restaurants shut by 2pm. So, standing outside a restaurant that Angela wanted to go to and was recommended, L'imparfait, the maitre'd at least asked the chef whether food was still on but came back with a resounding NON. So, the only places left open are basic snack bars.
We ended up by the old square in Bergerac at La Scala for a 3 course lunch. Angela had the gizzards salad, whatever that is. We will need to do a quick Google and find out. When it came out it looked like rare liver freshly sliced and spread on top of lettuce. Hmmm, didn't look good. I thought I would try a piece first. It was warm and tasted like smoked duck or some kind of meat at least, as opposed to offal. Still not sure about it. The rest of us had the terrine of foie gras.
Next I had the duck confit that was nice, but a bit rich after all the food we have had and also with the heat. I managed to finish it but only just. Had to leave a few chips behind. The others had the mixed seafood, which was a selection of fish, mussels and so on all battered and fried.
We all went for the creme brulee for dessert. Still chilled and the topping was only quickly scorched. It was all a bit rushed really and we were the last people to eat.
On the way home we got a phone call saying that it was another BBQ for tonight.
After a final dip in the pool and to catch the last rays of sun we started the BBQ. The steak was from a supermarket this time and didn't cook as well as the stuff we got form Eymet. All ended up rather tough which was a bit of a disappointment for those that didn't want it well done..
Saturday
We had to be finished and out of the house by 9.30am so they could start prepping for the next guests. A bit too early seeing as we were up till midnight trying to polish off as much wine and beer as we could so that we wouldn't end up leaving to much.
It was a very rainy start for the day and the first time it has been like this. Glad it was the last day.
We all went to Ste Foy La Grande. Took a while to park as it was a bit crazy with cars everywhere.
It was a really good market. Shame we had to go back today as we could have bought one hell of a feast. There several stalls with loads of seafood on the tables. Boxes and boxes of oysters going cheap, by UK standards anyway. Should/when we come back, this is definitely worth coming to and stocking up on goodies. Again, remember to get here early and it starts to close off around 1pm, unless it was the fact that it was still very wet.
We ended up in a creperie, Val de Racine (sp), for a coffee and some pancakes. I tried the creme de marron which is a sweet paste made out of chestnuts. It reminded me of the Chinese lotus seed buns.
It was one final trip to the supermarche to fill the hire car up (I am still hoping Gazole means deisel) and to get a bottle of Margaux and Pomerol. A reminder of the area to be savoured once we are back in the UK. What a pain these airport restrictions are as I thought I could just leave them in my hand luggage but ended up packing them into the suitcase which was a tight squeeze.
This is definitely a place I would consider coming back to. Such an easy flight from Southampton (apart from the extortionate car parking costs although we got a colleague from work to drop us off and we parked outside their house!) and driving to Bergerac or even where we stayed by Thenac is so damn easy. I think the airport needs a bit of upgrading to bring it in line with what is expected but I think that is underway already.
Once back in the UK, my only mosquito bite began to flare up. It was only on the last night I got bitten which is unusual for me as normally I am the one they go for but this time Angela's brother was the bait. Ha.
