Four Seasons

23 Wardour Street, Chinatown, London W1D 6PW. Tel: 020 7287 9995.

84 Queensway, Bayswater, London W2 3RL. Tel: 020 7229 4320.

This has got to be the best place for Cantonese roast duck. Not just one place, they have three in London. This is the one on the main Chinatown strip that has people queuing up outside.

Chinatown can annoy me at times what with shoddy service and double-tipping practices but the Four Seasons chain has always been good on those fronts.

I first went to the Bayswater one as I was staying nearby and thought it would be easier to get a place there than the one in Chinatown. It was easier as we went around 6pm but it really did fill up quickly.

Obviously I had to go for half a roast duck to find out what everyone else was going on about when they rank this chain so highly. So tasty. So tasty that on another night in town we ended up in their Wardour Street branch for a quick "snack" of half a duck, plain fried noodles, ma po tofu and beef ho fun. This was after spending a fortune in Kettners only a few hours beforehand.