Taking some foodie timeout for myself.

Classic view of Girona apartments by the river

Angela planned to go to Spain with friends to an apartment that we have access to, near La Zenia on the Costa Blanca. I had other plans though, although we compromised and I would meet them at the end of the week.

My plan was to do a bit of a solo food and drink trip, which would start off with a cheap flight from Bournemouth Airport to Girona for a few days, then a one-nighter in Barcelona before making my way down to Alicante/Torrevieja.

This is a write up on the highs and one low from the trip.

Prior to setting off on the Monday, I had the pleasure of attending a rum and wine tasting event up in the Library Sunday night. Couldn't have wished for a better start to my holidays.

 Rum and wine paired tasting

Cheap flights and technology

I remember way back that we actually got one of those mythical £1 flights from Ryanair and it was to Girona as well. Booked way in advance and got a good price, well any price that is cheaper than a train to London from Bournemouth is a great price in my mind.

I downloaded the ticket onto my Ryanair app in preparation. I had one backpack and a man bag (important for later) and I was off. Good job I saved my boarding pass to my iPhone wallet as well, because the 3G and Wi-fi is so pants at Bournemouth Airport that it was a struggle to download and show Security. Mild panic over and straight through for a traditional pre-flight Guinness.

On a side note, when will the airport just use those £3 pounds they collect to build a path by the main road? There is space but not the inclination.

Handy tip to save a quid or two. I took an empty coke bottle from my man bag and just filled it up from jugs on the bar whilst my badly poured Guinness was being poured very badly.

Another tip for a slightly more relaxing journey is to invest in some noise cancelling headphones. That constant drone of the air cooling systems, flight noise and other people is quite draining. I never realised until I wore a pair from entering the lounge through to getting off the plane at the other end on another flight. I still do it even when flying with Angela :-) I can actually hear my podcasts and music clearly.

I had decided beforehand to get the bus from the airport to Girona town centre. I was flying solo so wasn’t in a rush. None of that jumping out of the seat to scramble and get the case, to then line up all squashed still in the plane. I played it cool.

This solo trip was something I needed, for me. The time was for me to get away from the rigours of the multiple businesses that I am involved in, for a bit of personal healing time. We sometimes forget that. There's been so much talk of mental health and wellbeing in the office workplace, that I hope people pick up on this.

In Girona

To get the bus, you come out the airport and turn right and walk to the end where you can see the back of a ticket booth. It only cost Eur 2.75 for a single to Girona bus station. I just missed one unfortunately so had to wait for another hour. In the nice sun, ah well.

This was the end of October and it was clear blue skies and 20 degrees. A warm 20 degrees though.

I originally booked a room via Air BnB but that person had to cancel. In the end, I found a cheaper place all to myself. I walked to the apartment and rang the doorbell. I hadn't read my emails properly but eventually walked to their offices a few minutes away to sort access out.

Loft Muralla Girona, Ballesteries , 26, 1, Girona 17004.

Lovely apartment, with a small balcony, overlooking one of the side streets parallel to the river. About 100 euro including the cleaning fee for two nights.

The streets are noisy in the sense that when people are walking and talking it bounces up the walls and there are no trees etc to absorb it. And the street is quite narrow as well. I found that there is a cart, or something, that goes up and down early morning during the week as well. I couldn’t be bothered to look out to see what the heck it was.

Also, there is a clock tower that rings every 15 minutes and rings the hours out as well on the hour. All the way throughout the 24 hour day.

Having said all that, it was a great location and apartment. I just wanted to be clear on those points if you wanted to take them into consideration.

I've been to Girona a few times, so knew I wouldn't go hungry or thirsty after my travels. After a quick jaunt around the streets deciding, I settled on Bar B12 for a 10% Imperial Stout. Maybe not the best idea to start on something so strong, but hell it was my holiday. It even had a picture of Rowan Atkinson's Black Adder on the label for good luck.

It's a vegan/vegetarian restaurant as well if that helps.

Next I went to "Tony’s Girona". All that pre-thinking of going to the most authentic places, eating with the locals, I ended up in the most brightly lit modern eaterie in the area, where a group of ladies from the North East of England sat on the table next to me. Hardly rustic and off the beaten track.

Not entirely adventurous but I had a nice white wine by Oliver Conti Treyu, Gewürztraminer and Macabeo. I went nearly full English mode with jamon, egg and chips. Saved it with an order of cuttlefish though. Yum.

Tony's restaurant in Girona

That was the end of my first day. Head down on the pillow and zonked out.

Cathedral and Wall Walk

The following morning I took a walk to the wooden bridge first, to look up at the Basilica near the river. All the main sights are within an easy walk.

Heading towards the Cathedral area, Google maps said there was supposedly a bridge that was used in Game of Thrones, but no one I asked recognised it as being so. I walked around that area for a bit more, and up the stunning cathedral stairs.

Now those cathedral steps were definitely used as a backdrop in Game of Thrones. Maybe without the pro-Independence flags everywhere though.

From there I made it onto the city wall walk. Not exactly clear where to go but I just rambled around. When the sun is out, it does get hot up there.

I only got round half way and made my descent down. I actually thought I went right to the end of the wall but that would have been more of a job in the sun. Not roasting at 23 degrees but it did feel much warmer.

Girona wall walk

Had a coffee and toast at La Fábrica, as I felt too early for a beer. Ha ha. Just off the main street and at the bottom of the steps down from the wall. They have cushions so you can sit on the steps, which is cute.

La Fabrica Coffee bar

My next item on the list was to have a big lunch at a restaurant called Txalaka.

Having ate at Tony's it was now time to have a beer at at Jim’s bar, whilst waiting for Txalaka to open.

I went for the 3 course lunch menu. A drink is included but thought the drink was just one glass and not a whole bottle. I forgot we were I Spain as had made that good mistake before. Made the 34 euro better value for sure. I ordered a beer as well. They must think I am a heathen.

The Catalan approach to an amuse bouche was a sausage. A tasty one at that, but just mild amusement for the mouth.

Txalaka in Girona

The salt cod omelette so fabulous. So soft and tasty. Browned on the outside but just about done inside.

I went for the entrecôte steak for main course. It was huge, with nice fried potatoes and padron peppers. Took a while to finish that.

Well, I had to choose the cheesecake as a dessert didn't I. Not our usual notion of cheesecake with biscuit base, more like a flan.

Txalaka restaurant in Girona

That was a slow meandering 90 minutes. I went to bed after all that to sleep it off.

I still wasn’t hungry by the time I woke up. I did that siesta thing, and got dressed for 7pm. I walked around the streets to try and make myself hungry again. Finally sat down in bar Room 118 for a gin and tonic in readiness for the final assault.

Bring me snails

Went to L’argarda restaurant. Angela and I went when we came way back in 2003. I think it has changed shape or I might be wrong. That was when a woman on another table was going absolute nuts with regards her food.

There was a enclosed BBQ station right in the middle of the restaurant where a grill chef was working hard away, with a beret on.

Got two pieces of bread and did the local thing of running garlic clove in it, not too much as it burns, a lesson learnt way back, and then squeeze a fresh beef tomato on top.

Last time I was here I saw people tucking into this dish that I now wanted to try. I went for the snails, which I have seen but never ordered. I went for a small portion. It was a bit too much towards the end, and salty. 8.50 euro for the tray.

The octopus legs caught my eye on the menu as well. It said super tender, and it was. Even the roast potato was lovely, probably because it was bathed in oil or butter. I was done. No dessert was needed.

Grilled octopus leg

33 euro for dinner, including a vermouth and two beers.

Two nights in Girona done and I was very satisfied with that.

Onto Barcelona

In walking from the apartment to the train station I spotted an indoor market that I want to visit next time, for all the fish and seafood.

A ticket to Barcelona Sant was Eur 11.25 and the journey time is about an hour. Don’t forget to stamp your ticket in the machine, even if you bought it from the manned ticket booth, I think. I saw someone else do it so followed suit.

This might have been a high speed train, the ATV, and it was comfortable with power sockets in between the seats in my section.

Got there in time for the train at 12.25pm. 24 degrees in Girona. It was too hot for me to wait on the platform as there isn’t much of any shade. You can wait downstairs though and there is a live camera feed, or you can just listen out and watch the people heading up the stairs.

I actually got off the train one stop earlier, at Barcelona Passieg de Gracia, than planned. It was a short walk to the Metro to Dassanges which is at the bottom of Las Ramblas and then a few minutes walk to the hotel.

Hotel Canton is basic and cheap and so near the centre. Not Chinese at all. Receptionist chatted about my birthplace of Scotland when he checked my passport. Ha ha.

Vermut, tapas and cocktails

After another short siesta, could get used to those, I jumped on the 59 bus and headed to Senyor Vermut. Got a T10 ticket, which I should have got instead of the single earlier, just to make life easier. Works out as 1 Euro a trip and not the 2 of a single.

I got a couple of recommendations from Joseph Lewis-White, ex-bartender from the Savoy Hotel in London.

Two vermuts, mussels, capipota (head and leg - I think fatty cheeks and hock), mixed croquettes and anchovies. I left 24 euros and my wallet on the chair, until I remembered.

Next as recommended by Joseph was the Hemingway Gin Bar. I was looked after perfectly by Daniel. The bar had only been opened for 2 months. Really small and great fun. Daniel has been to Bournemouth as well, staying above the Camel Bar for a couple of months. Say hello when you go.

I started off with his take on a Gibson. Served with a thermometer leaning against the glass so you can take it at the right temperature, or get to understand the change in taste as it begins to slightly warm up.

My last one of the night was a Bloody Mary. He added some Tawny port to it, one drop Tabasco and one drop this hot stuff he created from Carolina Reaper chillies. My head was sweating just on those two drops.

My last destination was one of the oldest, if not the oldest remaining cocktail bars in Barcelona, Boadas Cocteleria, near the top of La Ramblas.

I went for a Dry Martini and the bartender free poured just the right amount and threw the drink as opposed to stirring it. Wow, I was amazed by that action and the fact that it was level perfect when he poured out the drink. He didn't smiled, but maybe he doesn't need to as that brought a smile to my face.

I sat and chatted to a young Scottish couple who were coming to the end of their travels.

Always keep an eye on your bags. This couple left a bag by their seats to go up to order and take a few photos. Other clients coming in, moving the bag before a barman caught them.

For some reason during my short back to the hotel, bypassing the ladies of the night, I wanted to get a KFC and Burger King combo. Ah well, I was on holiday.

Err OK, that was the end of an eventful day.

Leaving Barcelona and leaving something behind

I hadn't booked a train ticket beforehand, for my journey from Barcelona to Alicante. I didn't understand all that and didn't want to put myself under pressure for a time as I just wanted to meander and get there when I get there.

I was in no rush to get up needless to say. I got the Metro to Sagrada Familia to check on progress. Literally spent 10 minutes and then back down to the station again. I really wanted to see it as part of my travel. Tick, done.

I got to the train station planning to get on the train at 12pm but it was full. Full, what, can't I stand on it on a crowded train like to London? Next one was 3pm - come on, siesta time for trains?

Plan B. I dropped my backpack and blazer into stored luggage for 3.60 euro, which then made for a more comfortable journey back to Sagrada Familia to browse around, as I only had time to take a few photos earlier.

Seeing as I had time, I went for lunch but procrastinated so much walking around the streets looking for a place to eat. Found an empty place a bit further away from the church for a cheap lunch. Job done.

Next was a video call to the UK. I attend a monthly part marketing learning and part networking meeting in Bournemouth called You Are The Media and the organiser thought it would be funny if I called in.

Standing on the platform, the train was coming in, so I reach in for my ticket. All good, but argh, my passport holder that had my passport, a credit card and a bit of cash had gone. I checked, and checked every pocket and orifice at hand. Nope, nothing.

I might have left it at a café where I went for just lunch as I know I paid from my wallet, but most likely I was pickpocketed when I was outside Sagrada Familia. I was doing a live video call with the UK, had my headphones on and didn’t zip up my man bag.

Too late to go back, or to report to the police. I needed to jump on that train.

Way back in time at a previous visit, Angela’s purse was taken from her bag whilst she was sat in her chair. Not great, but it happens and our momentary lapses are all the thieves need. We are human and will be annoyed, have it play on our minds but let me tell you what happened next on the train journey.

Quiet contemplation

Whilst I was stewing in my seat, wondering what to do and what to say to Ange, who I knew would be annoyed, a guy came up to me to ask if they could use my charger for his iPhone. I plugged it into the handy sockets by my feet for him. His girlfriend came back and said that they only needed the cable as they can charge on their laptop.

For the rest of my train journey I was working out what I needed to do and letting friends know at the other end about stuff. I checked how much money I had on me and it was just over 4 euros. I had seen a webpage that said it was 8 euro to get a bus from Alicante to Torrevieja.

I thought I would wait till that girl came back to ask if I could borrow 10 euro off her. Or I would even ask her to see if people around us would donate 50 cents each. If not, then I could always wait at Alicante and get picked up although that would be an extra two hours round trip for the others. Had all these permutations running through my mind.

The girl, Elena, kept on passing and giving me pieces of fruit in gratitude.

I plucked up the courage to ask Elena to borrow some money when she came back to return the charging cable. I apologised and described what happened leading up to me having no wallet and money. Then she says, that's funny, and began to describe her own story of sitting at the train station and having a backpack taken off her luggage trolley and gone in seconds. She said her laptop had gone, and backup drives of video work they had and three passports.

I said, don't worry about me, I will sort myself out at the other end. It's one of those moments in life when you realise whatever your own situation, there is someone worse off than you and it's all relative.

Once we arrived in Alicante, Elena and Denis lent me 20 euro to which I was very grateful for as it meant after getting the bus to Torrevieja I could have some beers to calm down.

When I was waiting in line to board the bus, I looked up at someone that was staring at me from the front of the bus. It took me a few seconds but I realised that it was the two people who had sat on the table in front of me on the train. I knew they spoke English as well because of some interaction they had with someone else. They were going to the same place as me, and had heard my story.

Another revelation point. There are those in life that step in times of need, but there are others who don't, but it could also mean that they didn't know how to.

As far as that part of the journey went, I learnt a lot and met two really nice people. Our paths wouldn't have cross but for the Thieving Bastards of Barcelona. We met so I could return the money and found that they travel the world teaching yoga. That's probably why she picked up on my Zen-like nature!

Chilling in La Zenia

Thankfully the rest of the Spain holiday was uneventful, aside from more seafood and plonk.

We did have to go to Alicante to get my emergency passport. It was a day out as we've not really explored that area ourselves. Morning coffee and then Vietnamese noodles for lunch.

I don't want to bang on about it, but it was another time when I saw first hand that there were others in a worse position than mean. I had days left on my holiday to sort stuff out, but sat there in the Consulate I saw one woman virtually break down in tears and thanks once she got her passport sorted.

There was another bunch that busted through the door, woman distraught at the desk describing her situation, to which I read that they only found out about a missing passport at the airport and jumped into a taxi to the British Consulate. The thing was, because they were flying to Belfast, the airport staff assumed she needed to come to the British Consulate. Problem was, she was an Irish national. A few minutes of more distraught and blame game, then off they went.

I sat there and thought, I could have been in a much more difficult situation, but I wasn't. Shit happens but if you have an inner calm then it's not so bad, generally.

For Angela's birthday we went and had the Discovery Menu at Cellar Door in Playa Flamenca. This was a multi course tasting menu that was really nice and slightly out of place given the egg-and-chips environment.


About Us

 

Gordon and Angela Fong - living in Southbourne, working hard, enjoying life, travelling the world, eating great food and drinking some nice tipple along the way.

Gordon Fong

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